1950’s Mosal – Kurdish delight but very dangerous
Too hot! 130 deg Fahrenheit is too hot even for mosquitoes, so to escape the climate of Basra in Southern Iraq, I took a spell of local leave.
A flight to Baghdad, with an overnight stop in the Semiramis Hotel on Rashid Street, then another flight on to 1950’s Mosal – all bad news now, but peaceful, happy places in those days.
A short stay there, then on to the objective; the Kurdish country bordering Turkey.
How could I get there, no airfields, buses or trains?
I was introduced to a little driver, Kurdish, not Arab. He looked through, rather than over the wheel of his huge well worn Chevrolet.
The fare was agreed, half in advance, mainly for petrol (and probably bribes) and we set off.
The tarmac soon gave way to dust, but it was halfway through the day, about 70 miles on before foothills replaced the plains.
Further on and well into the mountains my driver seemed happier, now in his own country, so I raised the subject of the bullet hole that starred my half of the divided windscreen.
Apparently, recently in this valley, his passenger in my seat was an Arab police chief. Same destination, same route, same place, but not as welcome as myself!
No, he wasn’t scared, they were aiming for the policeman not him! These hill dwellers were born marksmen, accurate shots, some trained and retained by our own Royal Air Force as a ‘Home Guard’ called The Levies.
Magnificent scenery and a distant, stone bridge (built by Alexander the Great) restored my soul.
Onwards and the road was tarred again, built by British troops during the Mesopotamian War but with switchbacks and hairpin bends. Miss a turn and there was plenty of time for a prayer before hitting the bottom! Confidence? Luck? Judgement? Skill? Trust? Take your pick; and again on following days, mule trekking and climbing. Fifty years on, I now realise who really ‘fixed’ it all.
I have created you and cared for you since you were born. I will be your God through all your lifetime, yes, even when your hair is white with age. I made you and I will care for you. I will carry you along and be your Saviour.”
Joe Lucas January 2006
Joe’s next article:  Sable AntelopeJanuary 2006
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